老霍的周末百味 | 051. 陪你吃早餐就是生活里最日常的状态
我要做一道菜陪你度过无论是雾霾、晴空、阴雨、艳阳的每个周末。
食物，是最好的最直接的安慰剂。
每周五，找个人或者一个人好好吃顿饭。
百味，调和百种地区、风情、人文、记忆加上我的激情与坚持，在今后的两年中的每个周末，有我安慰你的味蕾，陪你吃饱喝足再一起硬着头皮和这个世界厮杀。
2018.04.27
天气 | 今年第一次换上了短袖。
心情 | 感恩，我遇到的每一个陌生人都如此友好。
You are what you eat!
如果翻译成中文就应该是“一方水土养一方人”。
我住在北京的通州区，很多人认为老外应该住在三里屯使馆区，或者朝阳公园，或者顺义的别墅区里......总之就应该是外国人的集中区域。
但既然来到北京，我最喜欢的就是混迹于中国人的真实生活中。
喜欢通州的原因就是她的历史古韵。
通州区距离北京最著名的CBD国贸区域直线距离不超过20公里，历史上为交通要道，北京的东大门，漕运、仓储的重地。
通州老人习惯说“上北京”、“下通州”，原因就在于通州燃灯佛舍利塔的塔尖与天安门广场在一条水平线上，确保北京不会受水灾侵害，因此也就有了“上”、“下”这样约定俗成的说法。
通州区的历史悠久可以追溯到西汉，始建路县，保留至今的三庙一塔可以想象当年的辉煌盛世。
文庙、佑胜教寺、紫清宫，儒、佛、道在这里比邻而居而又和谐共生。
而燃灯佛舍利塔据说保佑着通州一方的水土平安。
有水的城市天生就多了一些灵性。
自古京杭大运河就是水路进京必经之地，商贾行旅促进了通州的繁荣和发展。再加上万国朝拜、四方贡献，通州人也是见识过的。
通州人的身上有一种天生的、怡然自得的劲儿，虽然距离北京最繁荣、最国际化的CBD只有半小时车程，但通州人没有那么急匆匆的步子，也没有那么在乎光鲜亮丽的外表。
通州人的日子过的是一种滋味儿和传统。
锻炼身体抖的是空竹和踢毽，闲时拉拉二胡，一盘象棋围着五六个人，
就连通州大妈也比声名远扬的西城大妈多了从容和温暖。
味道，是了解一个城市，走近一个人最快捷的通道。
晚餐的觥筹交错是别人眼中你的生活，早餐才是你最真实的生活状态。
地道通州人的早餐是不会举着星巴克的杯子满街走的，更不会买个鸡蛋灌饼凑合一顿。
八旗早餐，名字就透着自信和地道老北京的渊源。
虽然只运营了十年的光景，但秉承着质量和品质的坚守，获得了一票追随者，历经几次迁址，生意依然火爆。
通州人的早餐讲究“干”、“稀”搭配 ——
“干”依个人喜好就是油饼、包子、烧饼、火烧…
“稀”的选择就更丰富了，豆腐脑、面茶、馄饨、豆浆、各类粥品…...
龙师傅是八旗早餐的首席面点师，我问他为什么敢叫八旗早餐 ——
“我们就是要做北京最传统的小吃。”
那么什么又是传统呢？
传统就是师傅怎么教的，规矩是什么，就怎么做。
你家早餐这么受欢迎的原因是什么呢？
真材实料，绝不投机取巧。
四季变化，不变的是他们的坚持，每天凌晨三点到店，开始和面、发面、拌馅、熬粥，只为了坚持现做现卖，每个清晨为你奉献最热乎乎最新鲜的美食。
但我依然好奇，每家都能做包子，但八旗早餐一个早上可以卖出600多屉，4800多个包子的秘诀又是什么呢？
龙师傅说，没有秘密，调料也都是最家常的。只要你不怕麻烦，用心去做就会好吃。
“五花肉和后尖肉是4:6的比例，
从不订购肉馅，
坚持每天现铰现制作。”
发面根据一年四季和温度的变化调整时间和酵母比例。多年的的经验造就龙师傅只用手触碰就能知晓发面的程度是否合乎标准了。
八旗另一个受欢迎的明星产品就是 —— 烧饼。
第一次见到韩姐，你简直无法想象如此娇小的身躯何来的能量。
她沿用传统大山子的制作，八斤重的一块面多次揉制后在一块近1.5米长的案板上擀开，刷酱涂抹均匀，行云流水，一气呵成，如同一幅中国水墨画的创作。
每个剂子100克，不多不少，在她的手中如花朵般绽放，点上芝麻放入平底锅，一次四十个。
制作、看铛完全一人完成，每个早上约制作2000多个烧饼。
韩姐腼腆的介绍，烧饼好吃的重点是外酥里软，一定要分层，不能少于20层，芝麻酱调制的要咸淡适中，不能煳嘴。
食客都是老邻居，马虎不得的，一点点变化人家都是能吃出来的。
通过双手制作出来，传递给别人，看着食客们这么多年不断地光顾，这也是身为厨师最值得骄傲的感觉。
八旗早餐不是个拍照打卡，晒朋友圈的地方，
这是个转头就能碰见左邻右舍的地方，
这是个让你觉得生活很真实很温暖的地方，
这是个让我留恋通州的地方。
半屉包子，一个油饼，还有免费的小咸菜，这就是我的标配。
再分享个秘诀，油饼要裹着包子吃才地道。
日子再忙，也请珍惜那个陪你吃早餐的人，陪你吃早餐就是生活里最日常的状态。
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老霍的周末百味 | 034. 在巴登巴登一池的温暖中配上红酒烤猪排
LaoHuo’s Weekender | 051. Having breakfast is a true part of your life
27th April
Weather | Start to wear shirt.
Mood | Grateful for each stranger friendly to me.
“You are what you eat!” The Chinese expression is quite nice: “Water and soil raise the personality”
I live in Tongzhou District of Beijing. Many people think that foreigners should live in the embassy area of Sanlitun, Chaoyang Park or in the villa area of Shunyi. In short, they should stick with one’s kind.
However, since I came to Beijing, I prefer to get caught up in the real life of Chinese people. One reason why I like Tongzhou is its ancient history. It’s about 20 km to Beijing’s most famous CBD area GuoMao. Historically, it was the main traffic artery – the east door of Beijing and the centre of transportation and storage.
Old Tongzhou people still used to say going “up to Beijing” and coming “down to Tongzhou” as the tip of the Budda Stupa and theTianAnMen square are on the same level with. That makes sure that Beijing is not affected by flooding. Hence, saying “up” and “down” are commonly accepted.
The history of Tongzhou District can be traced back to the Western Han Dynasty. It was founded as “Lu County”. Until today the three temple and the tower bear witness to the glorious times of that place. WenMiao,YouShengJiaoSi and ZiQingGong - Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism - neighbours in a harmonious coexistence. And it is said that the Budda Stupa to bless water and soil for the safety of Tongzhou.
Cities with water are inherently more spiritual. Since ancient times, the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal was the waterway to pass through to Beijing. The travelling merchants caused the prosperity and the development of Tongzhou. Besides that, the Tongzhou people have also seen the envoys of all nations with gifts and contributions.
The Tongzhou people have a relaxing-gene. Even though Beijing vibrant life is only half our drive away – Tongzhou people are not that rushed and don’t care so much about their glamorous appearance. They have a certain habit and tradition. Exercising while playing diabolo or kicking the shuttlecock and relax while playing the ErHu or getting together to play Chinese chess. I feel that even the DaMa in Tongzhou are more relaxed than in Xicheng ?
Taste and food is the short cut to discover a city and to get close to the natives. But the dilemma of Dinner with raising the glass to everyone – It’s is your live through the eyes of others. Breakfast that is yourself. Authentic Tongzhou breakfast has nothing to do with carrying a Starbucks cups to tell you know about life style or buying a JiDanGuanBing.
“Eight Banner Breakfast”, the name is filled with confidence and authentic old Beijing.
Only a decade on the market by upholding the quality it made a lot of followers. Even after several relocations the business is still hot.
Tongzhou people pay attention to the "gan" and "xi" combinations. "Dry" like YouBing, BaoZi, ShaoBingor HuoShaos ……
"Xi" choices are even more abundant: DouFuNao, MianCha, HunDun, DouJiang and all kinds of ZhouPin ……
Master Long is the Chief Pastor of the “Eight Banner Breakfast”.
I asked him “Why are you so brave and name yourself after the ancient eight banners?”
"Because, we are going to offer the most traditional snack in Beijing."
So, what is traditional?
"Tradition is what my master taught me and about the descend rules.”
What is the reason why your breakfast is so popular?
"It is about pure materials and being never opportunistic."
The seasons changing – one thing is always constant: Every day at 3 o’clock in the morning they start to prepare the dough, mince the meat, fill the BaoZi, cook the congee just to make sure to offer the hottest and freshest breakfast.
However, I am still curious. Every family can make BaoZi, but Eight Banners can sell more than 600 drawers in one morning. What's the secret of more than 4,800 BaoZi? Master Long said that there is no secret and spices are also the most common ones.
“You should do it in right way, you make it delicious and do it with heart and passion. You use a ratio of 4:6 for the fat and lean meat for the hash - never ordered minced meat – and prepare every day fresh. And according to the season you have to adjust the amount of yeast and the timing.” With all his experience he only need to touch the dough to know ready or not.
Another popular dish of Eight Banners Breakfast is ShaoBing. The first time I saw Sister Han, I could not imagine that such a petite person has the energy to prepare the dough the traditional “DaShanZi”-way. Eight kilo of dough repeatedly knitted on 150-meter-long wooden board. Spreading the sesame Sauce evenly with a brush on the rolled-out doughin on one go – a bit like Chinese ink painting.
Each ShaoBing of exactly 100 grams, not more not less - bloomed in her hands like a flower, sesame seeds and up into the pan, forty at ones. 2000 every morning.
She was a bit shy in the beginning, but than she explained what is important for the a delicious ShaoBing: “Should be crispy outside but still soft, at least 20 layers and the sesame sauce only a little salty. Our guests are old neighbours, no place to be sloppy, they can taste a little change and won’t come back.”
It is also a chef's proudest feeling to make it through his hands, pass it on to others, and watch the guest continue to patronize them for years.
The “Eight Flags Breakfast” is not a place for taking pictures to share on WeChat. This is a place where you can turn around to meet your neighbours. This is a place that makes you feel that life is very real and warm. Because of this place I like Tongzhou.
Half-drawer BaoZi , “yi ge YouBing” and free XianCai, this is my standard . And my secret I have the BaoZi wrapped with the YouBing for my ‘authentic’ taste of Tongzhou.
No matter how busy you are, please cherish the people having breakfast with you. Having breakfast is a true part of your life.
摄影：Holger Patitz
霍一德
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